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Seasonal guide

Atmospheric river season: keeping a Seattle basement dry

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Every fall the Pineapple Express lines up over Puget Sound and the calls start the same night: sump pumps that quit, window wells that overflowed, crawl spaces with a foot of water. Most of it is preventable in an afternoon. The rest is a first-hour problem.

A house surrounded by floodwater after heavy rain
Extraction starts while the water is still draining.

Why Seattle basements flood

Three things come together here that do not in most of the country. The soil is largely glacial till and clay, which drains slowly and pushes water sideways toward foundations. Much of the housing stock is 60 to 120 years old, with footing drains that have silted up and downspouts that were tied into drains nobody has seen since the Eisenhower administration. And the rain arrives in atmospheric rivers: narrow bands of subtropical moisture that can drop two or three inches in a day and keep going for a week.

The December 2025 series of storms set river records across Western Washington and filled basements from Everett to Tacoma, many in houses that had never had a drop. The pattern of those calls was consistent, and it is the basis for the checklist below.

The two-hour prep that prevents most of it

Do this in October, or this weekend if you have not.

1. Gutters and downspouts (45 minutes). Clear the gutters, then run a hose into each downspout and watch where the water comes out. If it goes into a pipe in the ground, it should emerge somewhere: a splash block, the street, a dry well. If the ground near the foundation gets soggy instead, the underground line is broken or clogged and every storm is pouring roof water directly against your foundation. Until it is fixed, disconnect the downspout and extend it six feet or more away from the house above ground.

2. Sump pump (15 minutes). Pour a bucket of water into the pit. The float should rise, the pump should run, and the water should leave the pit and not come back through the discharge line. Listen for grinding. If the pump is more than seven to ten years old, replace it before the season rather than during it; a cast-iron one-third or one-half horsepower unit is the usual fit for a Seattle house. If your power goes out in wind storms, which is most of the city, add a battery backup. A water alarm on the floor next to the pit costs little and wakes you up before the carpet is wet.

3. Grading and window wells (30 minutes). Soil should slope away from the house for the first several feet. Window wells need a clear drain at the bottom and ideally a cover. Clear the leaves out now; they are what turns a window well into a bathtub.

4. Crawl space (20 minutes). Open the access and look. The vapor barrier should be dry and continuous, the insulation should be up, and the foundation vents should be clear of soil and leaves so the space can breathe. Standing water or a sagging, wet vapor barrier means water is already finding its way in.

5. Storage (10 minutes). Anything you care about goes on shelving at least six inches off the floor. Cardboard boxes on a basement floor are the most common insurance casualty in the city.

During the storm

Check the basement and crawl space morning and night while the rain is running. Listen for the sump cycling more than usual, and look at the base of the walls and the corners where water shows up first. If you have a floor drain, make sure it is clear. Keep a flashlight by the stairs; the power often goes out at the same time the water comes in.

When water comes in anyway: the first hour

Safety first. If water is near outlets, the panel, the furnace or the water heater, turn off power to the basement at the breaker only if the panel is dry and you can reach it without standing in water. If you cannot, stay out and call. Do not wade in a basement with the power on.

Figure out where it is coming from. Clear water rising from the floor or the base of the walls is groundwater. Water pouring in at a window well or a door is surface runoff. Water from the ceiling or a pipe is plumbing, and the fix is the shutoff valve. Grey or foul-smelling water from a floor drain is a sewer backup; stop using water in the house and treat it as contaminated.

Call dispatch. (844) 543-5757, any hour. During a storm, crews are routed by proximity and severity, and the dispatcher will give you an honest arrival window rather than a slogan. Say whether the water is still rising.

Photograph everything before you move it. The water line on the wall, the source, the storage, the appliances. Your claim, if there is one, is built on these.

Move what you can, then stop. Lift boxes and furniture out of the water. Leave carpet, drywall and insulation to the crew; pulling it yourself destroys evidence and usually removes more than needed.

What the crew does when they arrive is covered in emergency water extraction: pump and extract, remove what will not dry, set drying equipment sized to the space, and take the moisture readings that tell everyone when it is actually dry. Crawl spaces have their own page at crawl space water removal, and the mold question at mold prevention after water damage.

What insurance covers, briefly

This is where storm-season losses get painful, so it is worth knowing before the storm.

  • Groundwater, surface water, rising water: excluded from standard homeowners policies. Covered only by a separate flood policy (NFIP or private), which has a 30-day waiting period, so buying it during the storm does not help.
  • Sump pump failure and sewer backup: usually excluded unless you have the endorsement, which many Washington carriers offer for a modest annual premium. If you have a basement, ask your agent for it this week.
  • Burst pipes, failed water heaters, appliance leaks: usually covered as sudden and accidental discharge, including in the basement.

Whatever the cause, mitigation first and the coverage question second. Drying has to start within a day or two regardless of who pays, and on covered losses the contractor bills the insurer directly for the approved scope. Does insurance cover rain damage? and sewer backup coverage in Seattle go into the details.

After the water is gone

The drying is not finished when the floor looks dry. Concrete, framing and the bottom of drywall hold water for days, and the crew takes readings until they hit the dry standard. Then fix the cause: the broken downspout line, the dead pump, the grading. A basement that flooded once in an atmospheric river will flood in the next one unless the path the water took is closed.

FAQ

Questions homeowners ask us

My basement has never flooded. Do I still need to do this?

If your house is more than a few decades old, sits on a slope, or has a crawl space, yes. The December 2025 storms put water into basements that had been dry for forty years, usually through a downspout that had quietly disconnected underground or a footing drain that had finally silted shut. Twenty minutes with a hose on the downspouts tells you most of what you need to know.

Is a wet crawl space an emergency?

Standing water is. It soaks insulation, raises humidity through the whole house, and starts mold on joists within days. A damp vapor barrier with no standing water is a maintenance problem, not an emergency. If you are not sure which you have, text us a photo and we will tell you.

Does homeowners insurance cover a flooded basement from rain?

Usually not if the water came from outside: groundwater, surface runoff and rising water are excluded from standard policies and need separate flood insurance. Sump pump failure and sewer backup are often covered only with an endorsement that costs a modest amount per year and is worth asking your agent about this week. A burst pipe or failed water heater in the basement is a different story and is usually covered. The guide on rain damage coverage goes deeper.

Can I just run a shop vac and fans myself?

For a puddle on a sealed concrete floor, yes. For water that reached carpet, drywall, stored boxes, insulation or a finished space, household tools remove the puddle and leave the moisture in the materials, which is what grows mold. The tell is a moisture meter reading on a wall that feels dry to the hand.

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